SHANGHAI FASHION GRACE
SHANGHAI FASHION GRACE CHEN Since starting her label in 2009, Grace Chen has established herself as a goto couturier for China’s business, entertainment and political elite. “Fashion trends are never a concern for me. Whether it’s ready-to-wear or couture, the designer should always lead, not follow,” she says, explaining her approach. Creating an influential fashion brand that belongs to China was a longheld goal for Chen, “Firstly to build up the mainstream standard of modern Chinese style and, secondly, to help Chinese women find their true beauty and confidence.” ‘Tide’ is the theme of this collection, with the design elements heavily influenced by the architecture of Zaha Hadid. The colors are simple and elegant: black, white, silver, cream and ranges of ocean blue. The fabrics have a contrast between transparency and matte, using silk charmeuse, organza, chiffon and very comfortable stretch fabrics. “As a couturier, you meet and know every one of your clients, but with readyto-wear, you never know who your client is,” explains Chen. “I’m not only making clothes for my clients, but helping them to shape their spirits and lifestyle.” “WHETHER IT’S READY-TO-WEAR OR COUTURE, THE DESIGNER SHOULD ALWAYS LEAD, NOT FOLLOW.” GRACE CHEN JINNNN Founded in 2014 in Shanghai by Jin Chong Yu, JINNNN’s clothes are designed with rebellious, perhaps even slightly self-centered, women in mind, but he doesn’t overthink his label’s manifesto, as he says: “Clothes are just a statement wrapped around your body.” As a contemporary label, JINNNN provides a female uniform (he also recently launched a menswear range as well) that often marries street style with traditional techniques from China. It’s a design aesthetic that has proved very popular in a short space of time and he’s now expanded his brand with a very well received collection of eyewear. JOURDEN Jourden was founded in 2012 by the Hong Kongese designer Anais Mak (Jourden is her middle name). The label showcases her take on the formal etiquette of femininity with modern fabric experimentation and shapes. As she says: “Being proper nowadays is seen as a new form of rebellion.” Her Autumn/Winter 2017 collection features modern silhouettes and embellishments, following an overall more baroque direction. This is most noticeable with her metallic fabrics used on quilted coats, dresses and skirts, and the shorts that are trimmed with oversized crochet lace. Cobalt blue dresses feature lacy motifs embroidered on tulle, with lace trims following hems and necklines. This is indicative of Jourden’s ability to mix artisanal fabrics and industrial techniques, creating a unique fusion of something old and something new. “BEING PROPER NOWADAYS IS SEEN AS A NEW FORM OF REBELLION.” ANAIS MAK, FOUNDER OF JOURDEN Models: Cong Chen at Elite Model Asia, and Yin Yin; Photo Assistant: Kingsley Lv; Stylist: Jill Zhang; Stylist Assistant: Bobo Zhao; Makeup artist: Anna Hu from Head Couture; Hair Stylist: Shao Yu Li; Special thanks to: POP American Brasserie at Three on the Bund, Shanghai, Art Labor Gallery, Shanghai 50 THE JAGUAR
Ready to shine. Metallic trucker jacket, gingham top and metallic shorts from JOURDEN; handbag from Rebecca Minko; belt, stylist’s own. Painting from ART LABOR Gallery: CITY DNA Seoul, by Chinese artist Lu Xinjian. THE JAGUAR 51